Rwanda

Dubbed ‘The Land of a Thousand Hills’, Rwanda’s lush green landscape, and the diverse wildlife that inhabits it, is indeed the country’s star attraction.

Exploring Rwanda

Dubbed ‘The Land of a Thousand Hills’, Rwanda’s lush green landscape, and the diverse wildlife that inhabits it, is indeed the country’s star attraction. This small, landlocked nation in East Africa has been pulling in an increasing number of in-the-know international tourists over the last decade.

But back in 1994, few would have thought that the country could bounce back from the horrifying Rwanda genocide, where an estimated 800,000 Rwandans were tragically slaughtered by Hutu extremists (an ethnic group indigenous to the region). It was one of the darkest days in modern African history.

But rebound it has. Today, Rwanda is known for its progressive policies just as much as its regretful history. The country is a role model in gender equality (Rwanda’s government has had the highest percentage of female members throughout the 21st century) and conservation (notably enforcing a country-wide ban on plastic bags in (2008).

Similarly, the country is a pioneer in ecotourism, with the creation of cycle lanes, wetland regions and sustainable wildlife tours, the standout of which is to see a troop of mountain gorillas in the thick forests of Volcanoes National Park on the country’s northern border. In fact, Volcanoes National Park was where Dian Fossey, the world’s leading authority on mountain gorillas, spent many years studying the endangered species. In 1983, she published the highly acclaimed Gorillas in the Mist, which was later made into a film.

It’s not all about gorillas, though. Nyungwe National Park, in the south of the country, is one of the largest remaining rainforests in Africa and is home to 13 species of primates, including chimpanzees and colobus monkeys, while Akagera National Park, in eastern Rwanda, offers up opportunities to spot rhinos, lions and hippos. And although Rwanda is landlocked, Lake Kivu covers a large portion of its western border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo, offering sandy beaches and warm waters for visitors to soak up the coastal vibe.

It’s also worth spending a few days in the capital, Kigali. Established in 1907, Kigali has grown exponentially after becoming Rwanda’s capital in 1962. The city is colourful and vibrant, with lively markets and bustling restaurants abound. It is also clean and safe. To many visitors, Kigali offers cosmopolitan fun that complements Rwanda’s rural attractions.

Indeed, the past of Rwanda may be bleak, but the future certainly looks bright for Rwanda.

Eating and Drinking

The majority of the population in Rwanda live off subsistence farming and so their meals rely heavily on starchy crops such as potato, maize and cassava. This is generally served with kidney beans and cabbage. However, the restaurants of Kigali, and other major towns, will generally serve grilled meat (chicken, beef, goat) with French fries, fish dishes, and sometimes rice with spicy stews.

In Kigali, visitors will also find Japanese, Indian, French, Italian and vegetarian restaurants. Most hotels have restaurants that serve a reasonable choice of European dishes.

Beer and, to a lesser extent, wine is readily available in restaurants and safari lodges

throughout the country. Adventurers may also want to try banana wine, a local

speciality and brewed in most towns and villages across Rwanda.

What to See and Do

Akagera National Park

After the genocide, Akagera National Park was overrun by returning refugees and much of the wildlife was wiped out. But the Rwandan government, with the help of Africa Parks, has rehomed these displaced people and begun restoring Akagera to its former glory – with lions successfully reintroduced in 2015 and rhinos in 2017. Visitors here also have the chance to spot elephants, hippos, giraffes, baboons and monkeys, and some 480 species of bird.

Butare

Once the largest city in Rwanda, Butare (also known as Huye) is considered the intellectual capital of the country, as it houses several academic institutions, including the National University of Rwanda. The most prominent tourist attraction here is the superb Ethnographic Museum, which displays a vast collection of historical, artistic and archaeological items that give visitors a deep insight into the pre-colonial lifestyles, and subsequent development of Rwanda as a modern African state.

Gisenyi

Rwanda may be landlocked, but you can still hit the beach in Gisenyi: a pretty market town on the northern edge of Lake Kivu, right on the border with neighbouring the Democratic Republic of the Congo. As well as fine slithers of golden sand (better for lounging than swimming), the town lays claim to a large brewery, which proudly produces Rwanda’s celebrated beer: Primus.

Kibuye

Located on the eastern shore of Lake Kivu, Kibuye is a perfect place to unwind. It’s also unremittingly beautiful: steep, forested slopes rise from crystalline waters, which are dotted with canoes and fishing boats. The town itself is home to a lively market, and there is a burgeoning range of hotels and restaurants tracing the shoreline.

Kigali

Safe and clean, Rwanda’s capital is abuzz with bars, restaurants and hotels, all backed by a towering skyline. Some of the highlights on offer here include the vibrant Kimironko Market, selling everything from carved wooden masks to fresh bananas, and Rwanda Art Museum, displaying striking works from local and international artists. Mt Kigali, a hill on the outskirts of town, is also a worthy diversion as it offers great views over the city from its summit.

Kigali, Genocide Memorial Centre

In 1994, approximately 800,000 Tutsis and scores of moderate Hutus – the two main groups in Rwanda – were murdered by Hutu extremists during the tragic Rwandan Genocide. The Kigali Genocide Memorial museum pays tribute to these victims (many of who are buried in a mass grave outside), and chronicles the events that led to the slaughter. It’s a heart-breaking but important monument to a seminal moment in Rwanda’s history.

Nyungwe National Park.

Located in the mountainous region southwest of Rwanda, Nyungwe National Park covers some 1,000km (386 sq miles) of rainforests. The park is home to a diverse array of primates, including chimpanzees, black-and-white colobus monkeys, owl-faced monkeys (with beak-like noses), blue monkeys and L’Hoest’s monkeys. Many of these creatures are endangered, while L’Hoest’s monkeys, recognisable by their white beards, are endemic to the Albertine Rift (a geographical region covering parts of Uganda, the DRC, Rwanda, Burundi and Tanzania).

Nyungwe National Park, Canopy Walkway

Hovering a hair-raising 70m (230ft) above the forest floor, this swaying walkway offers wonderful vistas over Nyungwe National Park. The 160m-long (525ft) bridge also makes for a great vantage point to spot some of the park’s 322 species of bird or 120 species of butterfly.

The Rwanda Film Festival

Founded in 2005, the Rwanda Film Festival is held each year over seven days (usually during October), Most of the screenings take place in venues around Kigali, but, as part of a drive to bring culture to the farthest corners of this country, pop-up cinemas are erected in rural Rwanda, showing everything from Hollywood blockbusters to contemporary African documentaries. It’s a highlight in the country’s cultural calendar.

Volcanoes National Park, Dian Fossey’s grave

Perhaps nobody has done more to aid the conservation – or increase our understanding of mountain gorillas than Dian Fossey, an American zoologist who spent nearly two decades studying the primates in Rwanda. Fossey moved to Volcanoes National Park in 1967, where she spent long days in isolation studying the creatures and raising awareness about the threat of poaching, in an attempt to save the animals from extinction. She succeeded, but was murdered in the process by an unknown assailant. Her gravestone, next to the research centre she founded, has become a pilgrimage site for naturalists. Reaching it requires a 30-minute drive from the park, headquarters, followed by a scenic two-hour hike through the forest. Permits and guides are required.

Volcanoes National Park, mountain gorillas

Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park is Rwanda’s most famous tourist attraction and tops many a nature lover’s bucket list. Tracking permits must be booked in advance (only 96 are issued daily) and cost US$1,500. Those lucky enough to obtain permits are split into small trekking groups, with assigned guides, and hike to one of a handful of designated forest clearings, where they spend a memorable hour observing one of the habituated gorilla families.

Shopping and nightlife

Shopping in Rwanda Kigali is perhaps the best shopping destination within Rwanda, and here are few

notable venues within Kigali:

• Caplaki Craft Village (tel: +250 786 540 678; www.facebook.com/kaplakiofficial) for an array of souvenirs and handicrafts, such as carved masks, baskets, musical instruments, paintings, batik, bags and scarves. The quality is good, but bargaining is essential.

• Rwanda Clothing Store (www.rwandaclothing.com) for locally-made threads. • Kimironko Market, for everything from batik to banana.

Plastic bags are banned in Rwanda, so take a cloth bag with you when shopping. otherwise everything will be given to you in brown paper bags.

Shopping hours

Mon-Sat 0800-1800. Many shops close early on Saturdays. Nightlife in Rwanda

Rwanda’s biggest concentration of bars and clubs is in its capital, Kigali. There are

several nightclubs on offer, playing African, Congolese and Western music.

Nightlife is quieter in other parts of the country, but there are a couple of popular bars

in the Lake Kivu resort towns of Kibuye and Gisenyi.

Kigali is also home to a number of cinemas, such as the long-running Century Cinema, which shows a selection of national and international films. Kigali Arena, a 10,000-seat stadium, also hosts evening basketball matches as well as concerts.

Nightlife

Rwanda’s biggest concentration of bars and clubs is in its capital, Kigali. There are several nightclubs on offer, playing African, Congolese and Western music, Nightlife is quieter in other parts of the country, but there are a couple of popular bars in the Lake Kivu resort towns of Kibuye and Gisenyi.

Kigali is also home to a number of cinemas, such as the long-running Century Cinema, which shows a selection of national and international films. Kigali Arena, a 10,000-seat stadium, also hosts evening basketball matches as well as concerts.

How to Get Around

Air

RwandAir (www.rwandair.com) offers internal flights connecting Kigali to Kamembe Airport, near the south-eastern town of Cyangugu. Akagera Aviation (www.akageraaviation.com) provides helicopter flights all over the country.

Road

Roads connect all major towns and cities in Rwanda, and travelling by private car, bus or shared taxi is the most convenient way to explore the country. It’s worth noting that it’s common to hire a car with a driver.

Side of the road

Right

Road Quality

Rwanda has worked hard to improve the condition of its road network over the last two decades. However, while you are likely to find paved surfaces in major towns and cities, in very rural areas roads are often dirt tracks, some only passable with 4-wheel drive vehicles. Additionally, landslides often close major roads during annual rainfall in spring and autumn.

Car Hire

Visitors can hire a car, with or without a driver, from Europcar (www.europcar.com). which has several outlets in Kigali, including one at the airport. There are also several local car hire companies based in Kigali, including Kigali Car Rentals (www.kigalicarrentals.com), 4×4 Car Rentals Rwanda

(www.4x4carrentalrwanda.com), and Rent a car Rwanda (www.rentacarrwanda.com). Some of the 4×4 vehicles also have a rooftop tent for camping.

Taxi

Taxis can be found in large towns and cities, look for the yellow stripe along the side of the vehicle. Fares are reasonable and should be on the meter, but some drivers are reluctant to use them, in which case make sure to agree on the fare advance. Tipping is at your discretion.

Bike

Cycling has been growing in popularity in Rwanda and more cycle lanes are springing up in Kigali and other major cities. Cycle touring, or so-called ‘bikepacking, is also an increasingly popular holiday type in the country, with specialist operators like Rwanda Bike Tours (www.rwandabiketours.com) and Rwandan Adventures (www.rwandan adventures.com) organising guided, multi-day bike tours around the country. Rwandan Adventures also offers shorter, one-day tours around Kigali.

Coach

Rwanda Interlink Transport Company or Ritco (www.ritco.rw; tel: +250 788 319 333), which is part-owned by the government, offers bus connections between major cities in Rwanda, Routes from Kigali span to Rusizi, Gatuna, Huye, Rubavu and Rusumo among others, with numerous buses leaving throughout the day. Other private companies also offer long-distance buses, though with less overall coverage. The busy Nyabugogo bus terminal, in Kigali, has offices for most major bus companies in Rwanda, with departure schedules and route information available.

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